Kumbh Mela - The Most Wonderful Sight in India?

"What is the most wonderful sight in India - thein river clay. Some of them wear no clothes at all,
strangest thing to be seen in all this land, where soand are regarded on this account with peculiar
much is strange? For my part, I am inclined to doubtreverence."
whether anything can be witnessed more impressive- Sydney Low during the visit of the Prince and
and picturesque, more pregnant, too, with meaningPrincess of Wales to India (1906)
and significance, than the Kumbh Mela, or greatAround the eighth century CE, Advaita
Pilgrim Fair, which is held, once every twelve years,Vedanta-proponent Adi Shankarachrya is believed to
where the waters of the Ganges and Jumna meet,have established four Mathas (Hindu monastic
below the wall of Allahabad. Until you have look uponestablishments) in North, South, East, and West India.
one of these tremendous gatherings of humanityThese four Mathas later started their own Akharas
many aspects of Indian life and character must be(gymnastic centres) to train their ascetics in the
hidden from you."martial arts. Frequent assertions are made that the
- Sydney Low during the visit of the Prince andfirst Akharas came into being already during the first
Princess of Wales to India (1906)millennium CE.
The Kumbh Mela is held in rotation among four holyAlternatively, theories abound that the Akharas were
places: Allahabad, Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nasik. In 2010,founded to defend Hindu temples from the Muslim
the Kumbh Mela returned to Haridwar, where millionsinvaders at the beginning of the second millennium CE.
and millions of pilgrims come to participate. TheBy Mughal Emperor Akbar's time, there were large
Kumbh Mela draws an incredible spectrum ofnumbers of armed ascetics all over India. They did
humanity: yogis from the Himalayas and Sikhs fromnot only come from the Hindu religion. A great many
the Punjab, peasants and businessmen, sannyasis andof them were also Muslim ascetics.
politicians. In Haridwar, the riverside steps at Har KiDuring the time of Mughal decline in India, orders of
Pauri, where Vishnu left his footprint and the Gangesmilitary ascetics became significant players in the
leaves the Himalayas, provides the setting for thequest for power. Some orders had more than 10,000
Mela.warriors under their command. They used
Kumbh is an ancient term that is already mentioned instate-of-the-art weaponry, including musketry and
the Vedas, where it refers to a pitcher or vase fullartillery, as well as horses, camels, and elephants. The
of water. The Kumbh is a recurring image onmost famous fighting ascetic Umrao Giri (alias Himmat
temples, coins, and seals, and is evident on itemsBahadur) even ruled his own small kingdom from 1790
recovered from the civilisation of the Indus valley.to 1802. The Kumbh Melas served as the staging
Generally, a Kumbh is used as a symbol of fertility. Inground for the mobilization, recruitment, and
ancient river festivals, a Kumbh full of grains wasmercenary employment for the Akharas.
soaked in the waters of a holy river and its contentsThese orders of ascetics were not only mercenaries
then put to seed during sowing time.but were also successful traders. During their annual
Kumbh in the Epics (i.e., the Mahabharata and thepilgrimage cycle, they could transport goods freely
Ramayana) and the Puranas refers to the legend ofbecause of their sacred status. They focused on
the pot of Amrit (nectar of immortality) that arosesmall, but highly valuable goods in order to maximise
from the churning of the Ocean of Milk. The Devastheir profits. Remnants of this trade can still be found
(gods) and Asuras (demons) decided to churn thetoday. Many members of these orders trade in
ocean in order to extract its bounty. The biggestcrystals, beads, and hashish.
prize was Amrit, which both groups sought in orderMilitant ascetics made use of their Akharas as
to become immortal. When they managed to churnbanking, marketing, and information networks. In
the ocean, Dhanvantari, the divine healer, emergedtimes of conflict, Akharas also served as
with the Kumbh of Amrit. A fight broke out betweensafe-havens. By 1750, the Shaiva Akharas were the
the Devas and the Asuras over who would get thelargest property owners in many pilgrimage centres.
Kumbh. After a vicious fight, portrayed in manyThey were engaged in money lending and used their
different incarnations in the various Puranas and Epics,military apparatus to enforce the repayment of loans.
the Devas finally defeated the Asuras.In contrast to the Shaiva Akharas, the historical
"The tale is great, one may say enormous. Everyreason for the emergence of the Vaishnava Bairagi
twelfth year is held to be a year of peculiar grace; a(dispatched or dispassionate) Akharas can be traced.
greatly augmented volume of pilgrims results then.Bairagi Akharas were created as a reaction to the
The twelfth year has held this distinction since themilitant Shaiva Akharas, who were intimidating
remotest of times, it is said."religious pilgrims, attacking Hindu pilgrimage places, and
- Mark Twain during his travels in India at the end oftrying to seize economic control over holy centres.
the nineteenth centuryThe rivalries between Vaishnava and Shaiva ascetics
Pilgrimage to sacred places is a very ancient practicewere not only based on ideological or religious
found almost universally across the world's religions.differences, but also from their historical interactions.
But pilgrimage also has an inner path next to theThey usually fought on opposing sides when hired as
outer path of journeying to a sacred place. Pilgrimagemercenaries and struggled for control over important
includes the internal voyage to one's own religion. Inreligious centres, since these brought prestige, bases
the beginning, the performance of Yajnya (sacrificialof power, and continuous flows of revenue.
ritual) was dominating in Hindu religions. Over time, theEven today, Vaishnava and Shaiva ascetics camp
resource-intensiveness of sacrifices and the exclusionseparately during Kumbh Melas and rarely associate
of large parts of the population from performingwith each other. But, remarkably enough, the Kumbh
Yajnya led to the development of substitutes. OneMela is one of the very few pilgrimages, where the
expression of this development is the institution ofsectarian itineraries of Sadhus intersect. Strikingly,
pilgrimage.besides the Vaishnava and Shaiva orders, orders of
Places of pilgrimage in India are referred to asascetics that are often considered not to belong to
Tirthas, which is derived from the Sanskrit verb "Tr",the Hindu religion play a very prominent role in the
meaning to cross. The term Tirtha occurs eight timesKumbh Mela. The Udasis think of the holy book of
in the Rig Vega, all of them associating it with water.the Sikh religion, the Granth Sahib, as a very
In time, the term Tirtha was used more and moreimportant part of their tradition. The Nirmalas go
exclusively for river banks or confluences of riverseven further in their syncretism. They proclaim in
sanctified by the performance of sacrifices and thetheir prayers that the Puranas and the Quran are one
revelation of mantras.and emphasise the identity of (Hindu deity) Rama and
The formation of Hindu places of pilgrimage wasRahim (one of the 99 names of Allah in Islam).
largely shaped through important ritual sacrifices thatWhen the various religious orders, especially the
were performed at a specific location. Because theseAkharas, arrive in the townships that are erected for
places were generally next to sources of watereach Kumbh Mela, they enter in pompous parades
(rivers, lakes and the sea), they became the majorcalled Peshvais (receptions). The monastic heads are
locations of pilgrimage centres, and remain so todayadorned like royalty in these parades. They are
(e.g., Puri, Gaya, Haridwar, and Varanasi). Thecarried in palanquins or ride on elephants, and wear
prominence of water is derived from its manyfine robes and ornate headgear during the Peshvais.
qualities: water is frequently used in sacrifices, is theBrass bands and traditional musicians accompany
primeval source of creation, symbolises the flow ofthem. The faithful line the roadsides to receive their
life, and is required for purification rituals.Darshan. The Kumbh Mela is the only place where the
The Bengali poet Rabindranath Tagore offers a similarAkharas still show the splendor with which they used
rationale behind the locations of Indian pilgrimageto travel around the major pilgrimage centres in
places: "India chose her places of pilgrimage whereformer times.
there was in nature some special grandeur or beauty,During the Kumbh Mela, Sadhus who have not seen
so that her mind could come out of its world ofeach other for years meet again. The brotherhood
narrow necessities and realize its place in the infinite."among groups is reinforced and decisions about
Further, Tirthayatra (pilgrimage) offers thepromotions and rank are taken. Moreover, each
opportunity to leave the historically and sociallyAkhara forms an assembly called the Shambu Panch,
structured time of one's day-to-day life and enterin reality, the collective of all assembled members,
the sacred mythological time of the gods. Evenwho elect a lead council of eight Mahants (great
untouchables and widows, who otherwise areleaders). This lead council, called the Shri Panch,
generally excluded from most religious rituals, cancontrols the affairs of the Akhara by unanimous
participate, thus allowing them to break out of thedecisions. The Kumbh Mela is not only a time for
rigid structures of their local communities. At Tirthas,coordination within but also between the various
a sacred re-enactment of myths takes placereligious orders. During religious discussions and
according to the religious beliefs of Hindus. Pilgrimsconferences, conflicts between the religious orders
walk on the same ground on which deities and theare solved.
heroes of the Epics strolled. A whole cosmic eventThe climax of the Kumbh Mela is the procession of
recurs with the pilgrims as participants.Sadhus leading to the particular bathing sites along
"Although Hinduism does not make pilgrimagethe rivers. On the three main bathing dates, the
obligatory, yet the ordinary Hindu attribute greatAkharas lead the procession for the Snan (bath),
importance to tirth-yatra where they resort to awhich is then called Shahi (royal) Snan. Interestingly,
host of merit-earning activities like taking a holy dip,the Persian, Muslim name for "king" was chosen and
darshan (respectful sight of devotion and surrender)not the Hindu variant, Raja. Leading each Akhara
of deities, temples, and ascetics, performing worship,regiment in the procession are long spears that are
listening to religious discourses, hymns and devotionalworshipped by the Akhara as their Ishta (gods). The
songs in praise of deity, doing charity to Brahman,Ishta are bathed first in ceremonial prayer and only
beggar and ascetics - all these believed [are] believedthereafter, will the Sadhus enter the water.
to earn punya for an individual thereby advancing himThe whole atmosphere of the Kumbh Mela is
to the ultimate goal of moksh." ("The Tradition ofsurcharged with religious zeal. There is a powerful
Kumbh", Das and Singh, 1990)impact when millions of people come together to
"The Fair (...) is run by associations of ascetics, whoengage in the collective bathing ritual. Thus a sense
have their branches all over India. They assume theof brotherhood among Hindus develops, despite the
fakir dress, or want of dress, and go about publicly indifferent sectarian backgrounds, ethnicities, and
rags, with matted hair, their faces and bodies daubedlanguages present during the festival.