Jammu and Kashmir - The Country Without a Post Office

Since the dawn of independence, Kashmir is the maincabinet decision cleared by the state forest ministry
cause of disagreement between India and Pakistan.and the deputy chief minister, both top notches from
The only difference today from what it was in 1947the PDP leadership. PDP president Mehbooba Mufti's
is, that the state seems to be more divided andremark that she came to know about the decision
communalized. Regular attempts by both countriesonly from newspaper reports were a full-size lie. The
took place to resolve the dispute through variousfact is that the PDP leadership could not foresee the
means: from bilateral talks, wars and state sponsoredhuge public protests following the order and when
militancy but the crisis sustained as the major sourcethe situation turned worst did a volte-face to
of tension and dispute between them. Today thesafeguard its political ambitions in the coming election.
divide among the Hindu and Muslim communities hasAfter the government revoked the land transform
enormously widened up in the region, credit goes toorder, PDP started demanding a credit for it. This is a
the intensified promotion of religious politics by majorclear example of the politics of opportunism being
political parties from both sides. When one sideplayed by political parties jeopardizing the life of the
desires to justify the 'Two Nations theory' thatordinary people of Jammu and Kashmir.
emphasizes that Muslims and non-Muslims cannot liveThe aftermath
together, the other side promotes jingoisticThe present turmoil has clearly shattered the myth
nationalism and demands Muslims to be treated asof Jammu and Kashmir as a single entity. The
second-class citizens. Religious sentiments aredeep-rooted religious and social divide prevailing in the
repetitively injected to both communities, as it is aregion is entirely exposed now as a 'Jammu versus
well-known fact that religion is the only topic that canKashmir' dispute. In the Jammu region, the Muslims
easily rouse the ordinary people to fight against eachare a minority compared to Kashmir where the
other. History confirms again and again the famousMuslims are the majority. Therefore, while protesters
Karl Marx maxim "Religion is the opium of thein Jammu enforced an economic blockade of the
masses". An elderly Muslim shopkeeper in Udarana, aKashmir Valley by stopping traffic on the
mixed Hindu-Muslim village near the town ofSrinagar-Jammu National Highway, on 11 August
Bhaderwah, expresses this enormous divide "Now weseparatist leaders of the Kashmir region instigated a
hardly visit each other's homes or patronize eachmarch to Muzaffarabad (the capital of
other's shops. ...We really don't have love in ourPakistan-occupied Kashmir referred as PoK) bypassing
hearts for each other." From the early nineties,Jammu. The intention was to explore new trading
Hindu-Muslim relations have rapidly been diminished inoptions by crossing the Line of Control, the
the state.temporary border dividing Kashmir between India and
Jammu and Kashmir's first political party, the 'MuslimPakistan. The march violated the imposed curfew,
Conference' was founded in 1932 with Shaikhclashed with the security forces leading to ten more
Abdullah as its President. While a student at Aligarhdeaths including All Parties Hurriyat Conference
Muslim University, Shaikh Abdullah was influenced by(APHC) leader Sheikh Abdul Aziz. The polarization in
liberal and progressive ideas. He became convincedthe state became absolute and there is no space of
that the feudal system existing in the land was tosuppleness visible from either side now.
blame for the miseries of Kashmir, which was ruled inMy memory is again in the way of your history.
an oppressive and autocratic manner by a HinduArmy convoys all night like desert caravans:
monarchy. 'Muslim Conference' changed its name toIn the smoking oil of dimmed headlights, time
'National Conference' in 1938 on the objective todissolved- allwinter- its crushed fennel.
create a broader platform and allow people from allWe can't ask them: Are you done with the world?
communities to join the struggle against theIn the lake the arms of temples and mosques are
monarchy of Maharaja Hari Singh. At the time oflockedin each other's reflections.
partition, when the Maharaja was hesitating over theHave you soaked saffron to pour on them when
choice of acceding either to India or to Pakistan,they arefound like this centuries later in this country
Shaikh Abdullah supported India. He was appointedI have stitched to your shadow?
Prime Minister of Kashmir on March 17, 1948. Until theIn this country we step out with doors in our arms.
monarchy existed, most Muslims in the region wereChildren run out with windows in their arms.
landless laborers. Along with the Dalits, they wereYou drag it behind you in lit corridors.if the switch is
also treated as untouchables by the 'upper' castepulled you will be torn from everything.
Hindus. Under Shaikh Abdullah, radical land reforms- Farewell: Agha Shahid Ali
were introduced in the state, through whichPolitical gambits have caused a colossal damage to
sharecroppers, mainly Muslims and Dalits, got landthe economy, education system and social fabric of
previously owned by Rajput and Brahmin landlords.Jammu and Kashmir. The once tranquil and gorgeous
His effort made him a hugely popular mass leader. Inland has turned into a 'valley of fear'. It has turned
1953, the Indian government betrayed Shaikhinto a land of orphans and widows, a land of
Abdullah by sacking him from the Prime Minister'sgraveyards. After frequently witnessing violent
post. He was accused for conspiring against thedeaths and funerals of near and dear ones, the
State and jailed from 1953 to 1975. Meanwhile, thepeople here has lost their normal human feelings.
Indian Constitution, vide Article 370 had granted aViolence has affected all sections of life. It has in fact
special status to the state guaranteeing it autonomybecome a way of 'communication'. Human lives are so
except for defense, foreign affairs anddevalued that a few killings hardly shock anybody.
communications. After his release, he had sworn in asStudents have lost their inquisitiveness to learn.
the Chief Minister in 1977 with a massive mandate.Teachers lost their enthusiasm to teach. To visit
For the next five years, until the death of Shaikhhomes of friends and relatives people has to prove
Abdullah in 1982, Jammu and Kashmir was politicallytheir innocence before security personals. Everyone
calm and stable. The separatist movement in thehas to carry an identity card, which is regarded
Kashmir Valley restarted from April 1988. Thealmost as oxygen. The situation is best described by
movement gathered momentum through a closeAgha Shahid Ali in his poem, "everyone carries his
nexus between Jammu & Kashmir Liberationaddress so that at least his body will reach home".
Front (JKLF) and Pakistan, which reached its peak inAnxiety and tension has become a part of the daily
the mid nineties. The present controversy on thelife here. A very disturbing psychology of suspicion
Amarnath Shrine Board land transfer and theand fear has permanently etched in the minds of local
subsequent incidents must be read based on thispeople.
history.Though located within free and democratic India,
Amarnath Shrine Board land transfer fiascoJammu and Kashmir no more signifies to be a free
The Amarnath Caves are one of the most famousplace. The presence of army and security forces in
Hindu shrines located in the Himalayas at the altitudeevery nook and corner has developed a feeling of
of 12,760 feet. The caves are about 88 miles awayconfinement and repression. To the ordinary Muslim
from Srinagar, the summer capital of Jammu andminds in particular, the most humiliating feeling must
Kashmir (Jammu is the winter capital). It is one of thebe to live under regular scrutiny about their
most significant pilgrimage destinations for the Hindus'patriotism' and allegiance to the Indian state. Armed
and attracts about 400,000 pilgrims (Yatri) everyconflict and disputes has halted the economic
year. In the year 2000, the 'Shri Amarnath Shrinedevelopment of the state. In the last one and a half
Board' was set up to take care of the pilgrimsmonth following the Amarnath Shrine Board land
passage (Yatra) to the caves that was previouslydispute, the local economy suffered a loss of nearly
conducted jointly by tourism department of theRs. 200-250 crores.
state government and Dharamarth Trust. The YatraWe shall meet again, in Srinagar,by the gates of the
and Yatris were largely assisted by the local peopleVilla of Peace,our hands blossoming into fiststill the
of the region, who are Muslims. Apart from thesoldiers return the keysand disappear. Again we'll
obvious gesture of religious harmony, the Amarnathenterour last world, the first that vanishedin our
Yatra is also economically important for the localabsence from the broken city.
people.We'll tear our shirts for tourniquetsand bind the open
On 26 May 2008, the Congress-led coalitionthorns, warm the ivyinto roses. Quick, by the
government of Jammu and Kashmir decided topomegranate-the bird will say-Humankind can
transfer 100 acres of forestland to the 'Shribeareverything. No need to stop the ear
Amarnath Shrine Board' to set up temporary shelters- A Pastoral: Agha Shahid Ali
and facilities for the pilgrims. The government decisionThere is very little hope left over for the ordinary
snowballed into a huge public outcry in the Kashmirpeople of Jammu and Kashmir today, the hope for
valley. During protests, six people were killed and 100an exuberant future. In the present circumstances, it
injured in police firing at Srinagar. The coalition partneris almost impossible even to dream about a
PDP pulled out its support and the government wasbrotherhood involving the two communities, as the
reduced to a minority. Keeping in mind the comingpoet Agha Shahid Ali did in his deeply emotional poem
state election and under pressure from differentA Pastoral dedicated to his Kashmiri Hindu friend Suvir
quarters, the government revoked the order on 1Kaul. To hope, one should regain trust and rely on
July. Immediately, violent counter protests sparkedtruth. Who will bring back trust and truth among the
off in the Jammu region spearheaded by 'Shripeople of Jammu and Kashmir? Time after time,
Amarnath Yatra Sangharsh Samiti', a conglomerationpeople's trustworthiness has been used by fraudulent
of several Hindu chauvinist groups but with a largeleaders for their own wicked causes. Who will tell
mass support. Here also at least three people werethem that division is greater a problem, not a
killed by police firing. Questions are raised by thesolution? We really do not know. Truth is the most
'Samiti', which was formed around the Hindupoliticized commodity in today's Jammu and Kashmir.
sentiment, that if the decision to transfer the landTruth is perilous because it badly damages the vicious
was revoked after the protests in the Kashmirinterests of the various players in this unfortunate
region, why not it is further restored after the morestate: governments, mainstream political parties, the
aggressive Jammu counter protests? On 7 July, Chiefseparatists and the nationalists.
Minister Ghulam Nabi Azad resigned after loosing theNotes:
trust vote in the state assembly and Governor's rule* The article title derives from the Kashmiri-American
was imposed in the state.poet Agha Shahid Ali's book 'The Country Without a
In this political chaos, the role of the PDP (Jammu andPost Office' published by W. W. Norton &
Kashmir People's Democratic Party) was the most toCompany in 1998. The book was originally published
condemn. The decision to transfer the forestland toas 'Kashmir without a Post Office' in the Graham
the Shri Amarnath Shrine Board was a unanimousHouse Review.